EnviroSlat® Decorative Cladding and Screening

EnviroSlat Cladding can help you achieve a stunning design/finish to your project that will require very little maintenance compared to traditional timber and is made from recycled, environmentally friendly material which won’t rot.

Storage

It is important to ensure that EnviroSlat is not exposed to direct sunlight or excessive temperatures while stored in packs in order to reduce excessive heat build-up.

EnviroSlat must be stored at and dry and off the ground; Standard 5.4 metre long packs of EnviroSlat require a minimum of seven gluts (supports) under the pack or be placed on an appropriate length custom length pallet for proper storage.

Working with EnviroSlat

EnviroSlat will expand or contract in length with rising or falling temperatures. All boards should be conditioned before cutting so that they are at an even temperature. Boards are best cut in the shade before they are exposed to radiant heat and in ambient temperatures under 30 degrees Celsius (in the morning). When cutting lengths of EnviroSlat you should take in to account the temperature of the conditioned boards and allow for expansion or contraction of the boards based on the likely temperature fluctuations over the year at the site.

You should allow for some expansion between boards that are butted together or where boards are butted against a post or other structure. We recommend a minimum 5mm gap between the end of an EnviroSlat board and any frame, xed surface or another board. EnviroSlat will expand by approximately 7-9mm (3-4.5mm at each end) over a board length of 5400mm based on a temperature increase of 40 degrees Celsius.

The surface of EnviroSlat could be as much as 25 degrees Celsius warmer than the ambient temperature when subjected to continuous direct sunlight. Therefore the board could reach a surface temperature of up to 65 degrees Celsius on a day when the ambient temperature reaches 40 degrees Celsius..

Fencing/Screening - Construction and Fixing

EnviroSlat is designed to be fixed directly to posts that are fixed in/on the ground. The posts can be made of timber, steel or aluminium and need to be of a suitable cross section and strength to hold the intended fence size/weight.

The maximum span for continuously fixing EnviroSlat boards is 900mm between support posts in order to minimize flexing caused by thermal expansion/ contraction of the boards. For single spans the maximum distance between support posts is 600mm.

Spacing between slats comes down
to personal preference and the amount of privacy, shade and air ow that is required.

EnviroSlat 70mm x 15mm boards can only be fixed with screws inserted through the front face of the board (front x) where the screw head will
be visible. Button head, wafer head
or countersunk screws in either 8 or
10 gauge should be used to front x EnviroSlat boards. When front fixing it is recommended that you pre drill all the holes for the screws. If using countersunk screws both the hole and the countersink need to be pre-drilled. All holes should be 1-2mm larger than the shank of the screw but not too large so that they are still hidden under the head of the screw. Do not over tighten the screw and ensure that it does not bury in to the surface of the EnviroSlat board. Screws should be positioned a minimum of 25mm from any pro le edge for the 70mm x 15mm pro le to avoid any risk of the boards splitting.

All screws should be plated or made from stainless steel or brass

  • If coloured screws are required we recommend pre-painting your screws before installation
  • EnviroSlat pro les should be fixed with one screw at each support point
  • Nailing is not recommended for securing EnviroSlat

Cladding - Fixing

EnviroSlat decorative cladding is designed to be fixed directly to battens in either the horizontal or vertical direction. The battens can be made of timber, steel or aluminium and need to be of a suitable cross section and strength to hold the intended weight.

Futurewood recommends that EnviroSlat decorative cladding should be fixed at either 450mm or 600mm centres.

Spacing between slats comes down to personal preference and the amount of privacy, shade and air ow that is required.

EnviroSlat 40mm x 30mm and larger custom made pro les of decorative cladding boards can be either face fixed or rear fixed.

Futurewood recommends using a 10 gauge countersunk screw when fixing through the front face of the board.

The thread type will be relevant to the material that the board is being fixed to. For rear fixing we recommend a 10 gauge coarse threaded particle board screw or similar. For face fixing

it is recommended that you pre drill
and pre countersink all the holes for
the screws. All holes should be 1-2mm larger than the shank of the screw but not too large so that they are still hidden under the head of the screw. Do not over tighten the screw and ensure that it does not bury in to the surface of the EnviroSlat board. Screws should be positioned a minimum of

15mm for the edge for 40mm x 30mm pro le to avoid any risk of the boards splitting.

  • All screws should be plated or made from stainless steel or brass
  • If coloured screws are required we recommend pre-painting your screws before installation
  • EnviroSlat pro les should be fixed with one screw at each support point
  • Nailing is not recommended for securing EnviroSlat

Colour & Surface Finishing

The colour of your EnviroSlat board will weather in the first 4-12 weeks of exposure to the elements.

After the initial weathering process the colour will be maintained over many years with only very slight changes year on year. The manufacturing process does allow for a very slight variation in colour from board to board and batch to batch of material. Slight colour change may also occur over time as part of the natural weathering effect.

Rough edges on cut ends can be removed using a fine abrasive paper.

Cleaning

EnviroSlat should be washed down periodically with a strong solution of household detergent (“Handy Andy” works well) in order to clean off accumulated dirt/grime.

EnviroSlat® Weatherproof Cladding

The Following points need to be observed during the installation of Futurewood’s Weatherproof Cladding.

General information

  1. Screw holes should be oversized and countersunk. The hole diameter should be 2mm greater than the screw size. We recommend using a 9 - 10 gauge screw.
  2. Fixings screws should be driven home but not over tensioned.
  3. All screws should be a minimum of 25mm from the end / edge of each board.
  4. The recommended sealant is H.B. Fuller’s Super Sealant HPR25 (black).
  5. When butt joining, the inside surface of the board should be roughed with abrasive paper to ensure adhesion of the sealant.
  6. It is recommended that a string line is used to check that installed boards remain parallel.
  7. A suitable Breathable Vapour Barrier needs to be installed between the studs and the Weatherproof Cladding.

Diagram A

Step 1. Preparation of frame

  1. We recommend the installation of a suitable waterproof flashing at all internal and external corners, windows, doors or other penetrations.
  2. The wall studs need to be adjusted and made plumb, if necessary, before installing the cladding to ensure that they are even and level and will provide a flat surface to fix the cladding to.
  3. If installing the cladding vertically battens will need to be installed over or between the studs at a maximum spacing of 600mm (450mm is the preferred spacing).

Step 2. Installation of Weatherproof Cladding boards “First or Starter Board” for horizontal installation

  1. Premark the position of the bottom of the first board on each stud.
  2. Install stainless steel starter clips on to each stud.
  3. Rest the starter board in place and screw home the clips ensuring not to over-tension.

Step 3. Installation of Weatherproof Cladding boards “First or Starter Board” for vertical installation

  1. Premark the position of the edge of the first board on each batten.
  2. Install stainless steel starter clips at 450mm centres.
  3. Rest the first board in place and screw home the clips ensuring not to over-tension.

Step 4. Butt joining Weatherproof Cladding Boards

  1. The proprietary butt joining plate should be used behind every butt joint of the weatherproof cladding. The joining plate is designed to fix over a double stud or a stud and block.
  2. Composite boards will expand and contract with changes of temperature so care needs to be taken when cutting a board to length. The ambient temperature needs to be taken in to consideration and if the surface of the board is hot (temperature above 25 degrees Celsius) then a gap of no more than 1mm should be left between boards at a butt joint. If the surface of the board is cold then a minimum 2mm gap at a butt joint should be observed. *
    *NOTE: It is Important that the boards are stored in the shade prior to installation to ensure the temperature of the boards remains close to the ambient temperature
  3. The weatherproof cladding needs to have the back of the board “abraded” with a coarse sand paper for 50mm on either side of the butt joint where it is being fixed to the backing plate.
  4. The black Stainless Steel backing plate needs to have a small bead of Fullers Super Sealant HPR25 (black colour) run from
    the top of the backing plate to the bottom, 20mm either side of the centre, and then the backing plate is slid into position behind one of the cladding boards and over the double stud. Half the backing plate will be behind one end of one of the cladding boards. The next board should be placed into position with the end 55mm from the other board. Do
    not screw this board in yet.

Place some of the Fullers Super Sealant HPR25 into the lower section of the backing plate where the two boards will join, and then slide the board into place reducing the 55mm gap down to the appropriate size
gap (see previous point #2).

Any excess Sealant should be left to dry and then trimmed with a sharp knife.

Step 5. Fixing External and internal corners

  1. We recommend using a powder coated aluminium section such as a 76.2mm x 3mm angle for external and internal corners. The angle can be colour matched/blended to suit downpipes, windows or other flashings that are in the vicinity of the cladding.

CleverDeck®

CleverDeck composite decking is made from recycled polyolefin (plastic from post industrial waste), wood flour (sawdust) and discarded rice husks making it one of the most environmentally friendly composite decking options available.

Storage

CleverDeck composite decking must be stored flat and dry and off the ground. Standard 5.4 metre long packs of CleverDeck require a minimum of seven gluts (supports) under the pack for proper storage.

Take care when handling CleverDeck as the boards are finished and ready to use and rough handling might cause visible scratches and marks on the deck boards.

Safety and Tools

As with any building project you should ensure that the correct tools and proper protective equipment are being used. It is the responsibility of the user to follow safe practices when using any tools during the installation process. Remember that CleverDeck composite decking is heavier than most traditional timbers and should be lifted and carried with care.

CleverDeck composite decking can be drilled, cut, fastened or routed with normal woodworking tools.

The composition of CleverDeck WPC decking includes rice husks and the abrasive nature of this material means that cutting tools will lose their edge more quickly. We recommend using sharp carbide tipped cutting tools. Saw blades should be a minimum of 40 teeth

Foundation and Sub-structure & Coverage (Refer diagram A)

CleverDeck composite decking cannot be used as a component of the foundation or substructure.

When constructing the substructure care must be taken to ensure that the joists are level, straight and square as CleverDeck decking will conform to the level and orientation of the joists.
An allowance of 3-4mm fall per metre of deck in the direction away from the structure should be made to aid water run-off and reduce the likelihood of water puddling that will cause water staining particularly when the boards are new.

Boards fixed across the deck at angles other than 90 degrees to the joists require closer joist spacing.

Check the fixings specifications table on page 5 to make sure that you have the correct spacing between the joists. As a general rule the closer the joists the better the deck.

The 138mm wide CleverDeck board combined with the Futurewood deck clip provides a cover of 143mm or 7 boards per lineal metre. The 86mm board combined with the Futurewood deck clip provides a cover of 91mm or 11 boards per lineal metre.

Additional joists will be required where breaker boards are used in the deck design. Read through the section below referring to breaker boards and determine your deck design before you calculate how many joists will be required for the deck.

The decking boards can overhang the sub frame by up to 50mm in length. There should be no overhang over the width of the decking boards (other than when the decking sits over the top of a facia board in which case an allowance for the width of a facia board that will sit up underneath the decking board should be made). Consideration should be given to the overall deck size and the number of boards required to cover the deck.

You can start from the inner or outer edge of the deck depending on whether you are using full boards or whether you need to cut the board which is normally against a wall of an existing structure. The deck boards will be installed across the deck and the finishing board may need to be trimmed in order to line up with the joists or if working to full width boards the joists may be cantilevered and trimmed back to the full width finishing board. Due to normal manufacturing tolerances and the potential for a slight difference in spacing between deck boards we do not recommend trying to pre-determine the width of the final board (the outer board must finish flush with the joist or facia board). Any cut outs around protrusions such as veranda posts or balustrades need to be fully supported.

Butt joins should only occur over a double joist.

CleverDeck composite decking should not be attached directly to any solid surface or watertight flooring system, such as concrete, brick or tiled patios, waterproof membranes or roofing (treated timber or steel battens are required for fixing CleverDeck over concrete, contact Futurewood for further information). Good ventilation is a necessary requirement for your deck. The Standard Futurewood Deck clips provide a 5.5mm gap between each CleverDeck composite decking board. 300mm clearance is required between the boards and the surface beneath the deck. Do not seal off deck ends, the airflow should be unobstructed and any water should be able to drain away freely.

The area under the deck should be dry and clear of vegetation. Drainage will be required if the ground below the deck typically holds water.

Failure to correctly install your CleverDeck composite decking may void your warranty.

Diagram A

Starting, Finishing & Fascia Boards (Refer diagram B)

The first board laid on your deck is referred to as the starting board and will normally be installed with one “free” edge typically gapped against the side of a wall/structure or at the outside edge of the deck.

As the starting board can only be fixed via the Futurewood deck clip on the inner edge we recommend using the Futurewood Starter/Finishing (S/F) clip to secure the starting board. The S/F clip should be positioned 3mm from the outer edge of the deck joists at 900mm intervals (every 2nd joist). Screw the S/F clips to the joists then push the starting board in to the clip at a slight angle (about 30 degrees) so that the groove in the board edge engages fully with the clip. A right angle bracket under the deck fixed to the joist and then screwed up through the bracket in to the underside of the board can also be used in place of an S/F clip if you have adequate access under the deck.

If the outer edge of the deck board is going to be visible and you do not want to see the S/F clip or the groove on the edge of the board then you will need to use a right angle bracket to fix this board and the groove can be removed via sawing. Alternatively you can use one of the deck boards or a Futurewood Enviroslat board as a facia board and remove the groove with a saw and position this level with the height of the deck boards to hide the S/F clip and the groove in the outer deck board (as shown in diagram A and B).

Before screwing down the deck clips on your starting board make sure that you place your next (second) deck board over the deck clips so that both edges of the deck clip are concealed (inside the outer groove of the starting board and the inner groove of the second board).

The finishing or last board should be treated in the same way as the starting board. The width of the finishing board can be reduced as required by sawing so that it remains supported across it’s width by the joists and/or facia board. Grooves can be cut in to the board edge using a router or biscuit cutter or similar to allow starting or finishing clips to be used on this cut board edge. CleverDeck decking boards make ideal facia boards.

When using CleverDeck boards as Facia boards they should be screwed (pre-drill and countersink all screws) at a maximum of 900mm centres to an appropriate frame fixed to the sub frame.

When using the CleverDeck board as a facia board the groove can be removed as required.

Diagram B

Breaker Boards (Refer diagrams C and D)

Because CleverDeck composite decking comes in standard 5.4 metre long lengths the preferred method of installation is to use a breaker board rather than having a number of randomly spaced butt joins spread across the deck. Depending on your overall deck size/shape you may need to allow for the inclusion of one or more breaker boards in the design of your deck. The incorporation of the breaker board can greatly enhance the character and appearance of your deck as well as allowing you to use potential off cuts (helping to minimise overall board wastage). Additional joists will be required in your sub floor construction to fully support the breaker boards wherever they are being used.

Running long boards with a butt join may result in a gap of more than 10mm once the boards have cooled and contracted. If staggered butt joins are to be used we recommend that you contact Futurewood to discuss your specific fixing options.

Breaker boards should be fixed using the breaker board clip. Breaker board clips are positioned at the end of the deck boards where they meet the edge of the breaker board. A breaker board clip should be used in place of a regular deck board clip at every 2nd joist (typically 900mm spacings) on both sides of the breaker board.

The breaker boards should be left loose and pushed back in between the regular deck boards then the breaker board can be placed in position and the breaker board clips can be pushed against the breaker board so that he nose of the clip engages in the groove of the breaker board before driving home the screw.

We recommend that any breaker boards, whether they are butted together or are a single board do not exceed 3 metres in length (e.g. a 5.4 metre board would be cut in half producing 2 x 2.7 metre boards). The butt joins between these boards should be gapped according to the table on page 9. This will help to minimise the potential for an excessive gap developing at the butt join between the breaker boards or for a single breaker board to expand beyond the side of the deck.

Diagram C

Diagram D

Colour and Orientation

The natural fibres used in the manufacture of CleverDeck composite decking allow some colour variation between boards and will enable the overall colour to lighten, creating a weathered colour effect over time. Allow 8-12 weeks of full exposure to sunlight in order for the majority of the colour weathering to occur.

The grain of CleverDeck composite decking will reflect light differently depending on the orientation of the boards. To ensure the same look across the deck it is necessary to run all deck boards in the same direction as the grain.

Fastening

The Futurewood Deck Clip System has been specifically designed for fixing CleverDeck boards and provides the added value appearance of a concealed fix while saving time and money on the installation of the deck therefore it is highly recommended to use Futurewood Deck Clips & screws when installing CleverDeck composite decking.

Most Futurewood Deck Clips are supplied with blackened stainless steel screws for either timber or steel joists. Starting/Finishing clips come with plain stainless steel screws for timber joists and BAL clips are supplied without screws

Make sure that you specify the correct clips based on the table below;

Part NumberQuantity & TypeScrews forJoist TypeCoverage based on 450mm joist centres
using 86mmwide boardsusing 138mmwide boards
FNTDCT115 {100 deck clipsTimber4 square metres6 square metres
15 anti-walking clipsTimber/Metal*
FNTDCM115 {100 deck clipsMetal4 square metres6 square metres
15 anti-walking clipsTimber/Metal*
FNTDCT690 {600 deck clipsTimber24 square metres36 square metres
90 anti-walking clipsTimber/Metal*
FNTDCM690 {600 deck clipsMetal24 square metres36 square metres
90 anti-walking clipsTimber/Metal*
FNTDCSF2020 starting/finishing clipsTimber3 x 5.4 metre deck boards3 x 5.4 metre deckboards
FNTDCBB1010 breaker board clipsTimber/Metal*1 x 5.4 metre breaker board1 x 5.4 metre breakerboard
FNTDCAWTS5050 anti-walking clipsTimber/Metal*may be required if there are a large number ofshort boards in the deck design
FNTDCBAL100100 BAL clipsno screws provided3.5 square metres5.5 square metres

Futurewood Deck Clips and AWC (Refer diagram E)

Futurewood Deck Clips and Anti Walking Clips (AWC) provide you the added value appearance of a concealed fix and save you time and money with the installation of your deck.

Futurewood Deck Clips should be used at each joist regardless of joist spacing. When using Futurewood Deck Clips the first (starting board) and the last (finishing board) need to be fastened using screws through the top of the board or screws/brackets from underneath the boards as as the deck clips will only be holding one side of the board.

One AWC should be used in place of the Futurewood deck clip on either side of every board, at the joist that is closest to the centre of each board, regardless of board length. The AWC will help to prevent the board from creeping or “walking” along the deck when it is expanding or contracting. AWC’s come with a screw for fixing to timber joists. The AWC can be used on steel joists using the timber fixing screw by pre-drilling a 3mm diameter hole. Before you drive the screw home ensure that that the tip of the screw sits proud of the deck clip and is located in the pre drilled hole then apply low speed and minimum torque to just “nip” up the screw in the clip. Over tightening will result in the screw spinning out and stripping its thread.

Futurewood Deck Clips and AWC should be loosely positioned in the groove of the deck board over each joist before sliding the next board in to position. Once the starter board is aligned and fixed in position you can prepare up to 5-10 boards (depending on the width of the boards used) pushed together with deck clips in position over each joist. Use a lever to apply force against the last board you are fixing in the “set” and a string line to ensure that the board is straight and true and then fix the set in place by screwing down the deck clips on the inside of the outer board (the last row of deck clips that have a board on either side of them). Make sure that the deck clips are evenly spaced over the joists before fixing them. Once the outer board is secure you can screw down all of the deck clips between the other boards. Repeat this process until you reach the finishing board.

Diagram E

When fixing a butt joint use a separate deck clip on both sides of each deck board (refer diagram F).

Drivers should be adjusted to a low or medium torque setting when fixing the Futurewood Deck Clips to ensure that the screws are not “over driven” in to the clips.

Additional care must be taken when fixing the Futurewood Deck Clips to steel joists to ensure the screws cut properly and to reduce the risk of the driver or screws stripping.

We recommend that a slow speed and minimal force is used to drive the screw through the clip until it is touching the steel. At this point the speed of the driver should be increased to approximately 1000rpm to allow the cutting edge on the screw to cut through the steel. Too much pressure or too little speed may cause the screw to go off line and will strip out the screw head and or the driver. Once the screw has cut through the steel any pressure on the driver should be reduced immediately to stop the screw from driving through the clip.

Futurewood Deck Clips provide an automatic spacing of 5.5mm (+/- manufacturing tolerances) between each board which is the minimum recommended installation requirement to allow adequate air flow between each board.

Futurewood Deck Clips provide the best fixing option for CleverDeck composite decking as they allow the decking to “work” with the deck clip maintaining independent expansion and contraction between the decking boards and the joists. This independent fixing method virtually eliminates the pressure build up on the fastenings that can occur when the decking is fastened directly to joists. This independent movement is critical when fixing longer length boards of CleverDeck to steel joists. This independent movement is critical when fixing longer length boards of CleverDeck to steel joists.

Screw Fixing

Screw fixing is generally not needed or recommended however, if there is a need to screw fix some boards on your deck please note the following instructions.

Pre-drilling and countersinking is essential in order to reduce the risk of splitting when screwing directly in to the face of the CleverDeck composite decking. A minimum screw length of
60mm is required. When fixing a butt joint two screws are required to be positioned 25mm from the outside edge of each board and a minimum of 25mm from the end of each board. Drivers should be adjusted to a low or medium torque setting when fixing screws in to CleverDeck composite decking. Screws should not be “over driven” in to the decking.

Screw fixing directly through the CleverDeck board is not recommended on steel joists when the board length is over 3 metres due to the different expansion and contraction characteristics of the two materials.

Nail Fixing

Nailing is not recommended.

Spacing

CleverDeck composite decking expands and contracts lengthways due to changes in temperature (there is minimal change to the width of the board). It is critical to have an understanding of the board temperature as boards cut at different temperatures will affect the appearance of the finished deck.

The longer the board the greater the potential for a change in length due to temperature change. All boards must be the same temperature during the installation process (measuring
& cutting). The boards should be kept in the shade so that each board is a similar temperature. If there is no shade on the site make sure that all measuring and cutting is done in the morning when the boards are still cool from the previous night. Once the boards are exposed to direct sunlight they will absorb radiant heat and increase in length.

A 5.4 metre long board will grow in length by approximately 2.5mm for every 10 degrees Celsius increase in temperature. The board will contract in length by the same amount when the temperature of the board cools.

Even on a day of mild temperatures and minimum temperature change the boards may vary in temperature by 25° Celsius or more if moved between direct sunlight and shade.

Boards should always be measured/cut/installed at cooler ambient temperatures (below 30 degrees Celsius). Therefore in summer months and tropical areas installation should occur in the morning.

Butt joins are not recommended but if they have to be used the boards should be less than 3 metres in length (as is the case with the length of the breaker boards). A 4mm gap should be left to allow for expansion when installing the boards at recommended temperatures. Butt joins should always occur over a double joist or cleat (minimum 90mm x 45mm) to allow for the use of a deck clip and screw at the ends of each board (4 Standard Futurewood Deck Clips are required -2 deck clips per side per butt join). It is highly recommended that boards over 3 metres in length are not butted end to end (this applies for either a continuous run of boards or an angled or mitred join). Running long boards with a butt join may result in a gap of more than 10mm once the boards have cooled and contracted. The preferred method of deck design is to use a breaker board (refer to the breaker board fixing information above). Other fixing options might be applicable if numerous butt joins are required. Please contact Futurewood for information regarding alternative butt joining options.

A 5mm to 7mm gap is required around posts or other protrusions in the decking. As mentioned in the substructure information any protrusions should have joists fitted around them so that the end gaps can be fully supported.

Diagram F

CleverDeck Composite Decking Domestic Fixing Specifications

DescriptionSize
Maximum joist distance (centre to centre) laid at 90 ° to the joist450mm*
Maximum joist distance (centre to centre) laid at 60 ° to the joist400mm*
Maximum joist distance (centre to centre) laid at 45 ° to the joist350mm*
Maximum joist distance (centre to centre) laid at 30 ° to the joist250mm*
Maximum stringer spacing for stairs (centre to centre) (Note: Stair installation using CleverDeck should always include a riser board)300mm
Minimum ground Clearance300mm**
Minimum spacing between boards (side to side)5mm
Minimum spacing at end of boards (abutting a wall)5mm
Minimum spacing from boards running parallel to a side wall5mm
Maximum overhang of boards past supporting joist(applies to length only width must be supported)50mm
Spacing required for butt joins in the deck(for boards up to 3 metres long)4mm
Spacing required where boards meet protrusions in the deck(for boards up to 3 metres long)5mm
Spacing required where boards meet protrusions in the deck(for boards over 3 metres long)7mm
Minimum spacing for screw fixings from the edge of the board25mm
Space between butt end and breaker board2–7mm***
*Maximum recommended centre-to-centre spans using a minimum of three joists. Closer joist spacings will improve the overall quality and performance of the deck. A joist spacing of 400mm will improve the deck’s performance and a joist spacing of 300mm will give better performance again.
** Contact Futurewood for information relating to batten fixing over concrete where the minimum ground clearance may be less than 300mm.
*** Will depend on geographical region, installed temperature and likely temperature change over the year.
CleverDeck composite decking must not be applied directly to a solid surface.
Commercial installations will need to be assessed on a case by case basis.
Fixing details and specifications may change without notice.
For further information regarding your CleverDeck decking please Contact Futurewood